The Gnarly Novice: Rules to live by
Surfing may seem like a "no holds barred" kind of activity, but among dudes and dudettes out on the water, there's an unspoken code of conduct that should be observed.
Like any other sport, etiquette is important, and athletes generally know and understand what is expected of them. Unlike other sports, these rules are highly subjective, are not to be found in any detailed document and are not officially enforced.
Most of the suggested guidelines for surfing emphasize respect for your fellow shredders. They exist primarily to keep things fair and, above all, to keep us safe.
Being a gnarly novice, I have unintentionally or unknowingly broken these rules from time to time, occasionally resulting in painful consequences. I was hit in the back of the head with another surfer's board after accidentally dropping in on her wave. I have been forced to beg off a wave when I failed to recognize the need to let someone else go before me.
I felt so guilty and small. I didn't know the rules, and violating them made me feel like an outsider or an annoying "kook," as inexperienced surfers are often called.
I have also been the victim of these etiquette crimes. Surfers have cut in front of me, stolen "my wave" and nearly run me over.
It is difficult to explain the anger and frustration one feels in those moments. When others are invading your space and making it difficult to enjoy your passion, it is both annoying and maddening.
It was during those moments that I recognized the need to acknowledge some guidelines that dictate surfers' behavior and maintain the joy, fairness and good nature of the sport. I asked a few of my surfer buddies to offer a list of their biggest pet peeves on the water, and they had a lot to say on the subject:
• Not having control of your surfboard: This is a relatively easy mistake to make when unrelenting waves are tossing you around. Sure, you typically have your leash fastened around your ankle, connecting you to your board, but that only keeps the board within about 9 feet of you.
As easy as it is to break this rule (and I have, many times), it is one of the most important. A board with a 9-foot radius in every direction is a hazard not just for the surfer, but also for everyone around him or her. Rogue boards could (and have) knock people unconscious, bruise them or even slice their skin. When not on top of the board, surfers should always keep their board vertical to the waves and positioned securely at their side.
One of my biggest flaws is something I was taught not to do on day one. Without thinking, or because I'm struggling to regain my footing on the ocean floor during a particularly turbulent set of waves, I have let my board drift to a horizontal position. It doesn't take a genius to know the next wave will likely result in my surfboard flying back at me, clocking me in the head or even knocking the wind out of me.
I'm working on it.
• Jumping off your board after riding a wave: This could be an addendum to the previous rule, as the rationale for it and result of it is often the same. After riding a wave toward the shore, a surfer's first inclination is often to abandon the board by jumping into the water.
The reason for this is logical: you don't want the fins of your board running aground on the sand if you get too close to the beach. Also, after the rush of riding a good wave, you can forget yourself and leap from your board as a form of celebration.
So what should you do after riding a wave? Simply sit down or kneel on the board, gain control, then turn around and paddle out for another.
• Paddling/walking out behind another surfer: Surfers wait for waves in what is referred to as "the line-up." It is the point just past where the waves are breaking from which surfers can begin to paddle in hopes of catching a wave.
When heading out to the line-up, it is important not to follow another surfer too closely, lest a big wave knock that person backward into you. Another similar violation is when surfers are out in the line-up, and one surfer positions him or herself behind another. This is especially aggravating, as the person in front has little choice but to move to another spot to avoid getting pummeled by the person behind.
• Paddling around others: Everyone wants to be in the "magic spot" where all the waves are breaking. Because the waves are constantly shifting the structure of the ground below, these "magic spots" change frequently over the course of a surf session.
While some paddling is inevitable, constant paddling into others' areas is considered poor form. The solution is simple: just wait your turn and, eventually, the waves often come to you.
A line-up comprised of experienced surfers looks almost regimented. No one is paddling wildly all over the place. Everyone waits his or her turn with patience and control.
• Chatty Cathys (or Charlies): It is certainly permissible to talk with other surfers while out in the line-up, but don't crown yourself the official wave broadcaster. Everyone can see when a good wave is coming, but there is often one person who makes it his or her job to routinely announce it.
Don't be that guy/girl.
• Dropping in/being a wave hog: When the waves are few and far between, there is a temptation to "drop in" on someone else's wave.
Surfing is about sharing. Surfers have to be mindful of others, doing their best to ensure everyone has an opportunity to catch a wave during a given session.
Dropping in occurs when one person tries to paddle for the same wave that someone else is already riding or attempting to catch. A lot of times this happens by accident. Sometimes you just don't see the person to your right, left or behind you until it is too late.
The best defense is a good offense. Make sure you are always checking all around you before going for a wave. Colliding with another surfer on a breaking wave is no fun. Trust me.
In a sport that often defies convention, it seems crazy to impose rules. But avoiding these potentially dangerous violations can make your rides much more enjoyable and give you a better chance of living to tell the tale.